Saturday, January 4, 2025

Georgia & Armenia 2024 Day 9: Stepantsminda To Kutaisi

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Georgia-Armenia 2024 Day 9: Stepantsminda To Kutaisi

Georgia-Armenia 2024 Day 9: 25th September (Wednesday)
This is page 9 of a 14-page blog, Click Here To Go To Title Page.
D8: Dariali Monastery            |           Go to Other Days          |          D10: Martvili Canyon >

Route recommendations, here're some tips on travelling in and around Tbilisi (Georgia):
1. Traffic Directions!
    Driving in Georgia is left-hand drive, with a speed limit of 60 km/h in cities and towns, and 80 km/h in other areas unless indicated otherwise. Armenia is also left-hand drive, so in both Georgia and Armenia drive/cycle on the right.

2. Immigration & Customs Requirements
    For Georgia, citizens of Malaysia do not need a visa to enter for travel purposes and can stay in the country for 365 days without a visa. The travel passport must be valid throughout the whole period of stay in Georgia. A blank page is necessary for an entry stamp. Click here for a list of countries that need visa entry. Click here for the Georgia E-visa application portal and click here for guidelines on the E-visa application which costs USD20 (30 days validity).
    For both countries, after clearing immigration, one will have to go through customs. We had to carry our luggage personally through. They are green lanes for those with nothing to declare; for duty-free good exemption, click here for Georgia's regulations, and here for Armenia's. Our vans had to go through the vehicles' lanes.
    For those bringing in personal medication (up to 31 days usage) into Georgia, do get a prescription from your doctor; click here for guidelines.

3. Getting to and around Georgia & Armenia.
    Major airlines serve both Georgia & Armenia. We flew from KLIA Terminal 1 into and out of Shota Rustaveli Tbilisi International Airport via Qatar Airways, with transit at Doha. It would have been time-saving into Armenia via Yerevan's Zvartnots International Airport; but we naively erred on the side of caution. Our airfares were bought during the MATA Travel Fair via promotions by the RHB Debit Card, the return fare cost us between MYR 2,800 to 3,200.
    We got around both countries by using a local long-chassis Mercedes Sprinter Van with an extended rear luggage section for the 16 of us, and a Mercedes V-Class 7-seater van for another four of us who enlisted later. The rides were generally comfortable as most were on tarred roads with some stretches of gravel roads.
    For harsher rides we used smaller local vans with drivers familiar to the rougher, steeper roads - this was to the Gergeti Trinity ChurchUshguli VillageKoruldi Lakes and Chalaadi Glacier.
    There were a couple of free days to explore Tbilisi by ourselves, but it is possible to use the Uber Georgia app to get further around. Other ride-hailing alternatives are Bolt, Yandex and Taxi Maxim.

4. Places & Things of Interest  
    Enroute were several places of interest, some of which we visited and others we did not for lack of time (Note: click on GPS coordinates for a directional map to respective places):
    b. Mount Kazbek (GPS: 42.69722, 44.51491).
    
5. Food
   a. Breakfast:
        An excellent inclusive Western/Georgian Fare at the Hotel Kazbegi 1963 (GPS: 42.65766, 44.64758) in Stepantsminda.
    b. Lunch:
        Grilled Beef Ribs, grilled trout, salad & Georgian Wine at Gogi Dvalishvili Wine Cellar (გოგი დვალიშვილის მარანი) (GPS: 41.96385, 44.13891), a micro-winery in Khidistavi village.
    c. Dinner:
        Western/Georgian Fare at the food court of Smart Supermarket (სმარტი) (GPS: 42.14781, 42.96531) in Argveta.
 
6. Accommodations
    First of two nights at Prestige Guest House (GPS: 42.25811, 42.6871) in Kutaisi. The alternate hotel for the second group was Gala Boutique Hotel (GPS: 42.27376, 42.70787). 

7. Tour Costs & Arrangements
    Return air tickets bought during the MATA Travel Fair/RHB Debit Card promotions were between MYR 2,800 to 3,200.
    The ground arrangements tour package included a 10-passenger van to take us around, starting from & returning to Tbilisi. It also included 3-star hotels/homestays. The charge per pax for this ground arrangement was at MYR7,400. This excluded meals (other than hotel breakfasts & 3 dinners at Mestia), airport transfers, most entry tickets and tips. This allows for individuals to have meals according to their own liking & budget. Allow per meal should be adequate.
    On average, the overall tour cost worked out to be around RM950 to RM1,000 per day. For those interested in this tour, contact Eddie at +6012-6122600 for more details and updated costs.
    For out-of-pocket spending, we exchange some Georgian Lari (GEL) and Armenian Dram (AMD) in the respective countries. Some brought along their Wise debit cards to use; one can pre-load the card with the local currency. Or let it auto-deduct the currencies existing in the card. We found that it deducted other currencies first before deducting Malaysian Ringgit.

8. Communicating with Each Other
    When travelling in a group it's important to be able to communicate with each other, especially if one gets lost from the rest. Georgia pre-paid sim cards are easily available and cost 5 GEL to 20 GEL, depending on the provider and the included benefits. While Armenian pre-paid SIM cards range from AMD 1000 to AMD 3000. Those in our tour group pre-ordered their SIM cards through our Georgian guide.
    Those who use Maxis as their telco can purchase the Maxis Roaming Pass. The RM89  15-day Multi-country Roaming Pass covers many countries including Georgia, Armenia and Qatar.
     The Pass can be bought before the trip with a designated starting time/date, BUT DO TURN OFF your data roaming just before the Roaming Pass expires OTHERWISE any subsequent usage will automatically trigger off the 1-Day Roaming Pass costing between RM29 to RM38 per day!

9. Communicating with Locals
    At favourite tourist destinations, locals may speak fairly good English. In the smaller towns, locals speak some rudimentary English, and our local guide was most helpful in translating for us.
    
10. Weather
      The average day and night temperatures at Stepantsminda were 27°C; while average day and night temperatures at Kutaisi were 27°C and 17°C.
     Useful weather forecast sites for Georgia & Armenia is AccuWeather. For more detailed weather, including cloud cover and wind speed, use Weatherspark and Ventusky.

11. Navigation
    I used MapMyRide to track our routes and stops. Geo-tagging of places of interest was via FaceBook or Google Maps.
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PRELUDE
The day before, we had toured to the attractions nearby to Stepantsminda; such as Dariali Monastery Complex (for some wine tasting at their winery); the Stone Sculptures at Sno. and the rustic deserted Akhaltsikhe Village, etc. 
Today, we leave Stepantsminda for Kutaisi, to spend two nights there.  Enroute will visit a winery, the Joseph Stalin Museum and some caves. be our second night here and we head out to visit nearby places - a place with giant head sculptures (Easter Island Moai Statues in Georgia?) and a monastery that makes wine!
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DAY 9: STEPANTSMINDA TO KUTAISI
Guided Group (Non-cycling) Tour of Georgia & Armenia:
(Click here for the Georgia-Armenia Day 9: Stepantsminda-Kutaisi Route Map)

Most posts below are linked to my Facebook postings during the trip and are embedded here with some comments. (NOTE: Click on respective posts to link to the FB post for more details. If you can't see the posts, please log out from your Facebook first)
Good morning from Hotel Kazbegi 1963Stepantsminda.
Today the skies are clear and bright blue, heralding good views... and hotter weather too!

Breakfast at the hotel.
It was a cold morning, so I went more for the warm coffee and hot soup -
 Hope I won't get into hot soup with the kitchen staff later 😆.

Goodbye Stepantsminda, heading for Kutaisi along Route E117, going along the Terek River. And later along the Baidara River
Here, 
Route E117, is also known as the Georgian Military Road or Georgian Military Highway also known as Ghalghaï Military Road, is the historic name for a major route through the Caucasus from Georgia to Russia.

Passing by the Georgia-Russia Friendship Monument at Ganisi again. This time the skies are clear compared to the rainy one the other day, and the monument colours come out brightly. Too bad we didn't have time to stop.

Further down, Gudauri looks greener. It's a ski resort, and in winter it will be beautifully white. But for now, the ski chair-lifts are idle and quiet.

Rest stop at the Mountain Spring Viewpoint at Ganisi. There are great views from here .... but it's also a strategic rest stop .....

As can be seen by this toilet pee photo.
This couple is not dancing ballet, but doing a dance of a different kind 😖😂

Passed by the Ananuri Fortress again, with nice views of the Zhinvali Reservoir from the Zhinvali Reservoir Viewpoint.

More views of the Zhinvali Reservoir.

12:00PM - Made a short stop at this road-side shop at Bulachauri, which sells Georgian Fruit WinesGeorgian Brandy & nice souvenirs. 


Also sold are local goods, like wine and chocolate in beautiful packaging.

And unbranded local unbranded wines, sold in huge two and ten-litre bottles.
Our friend here taking a "sip" from a two-litre bottle and is ready to PARTY!

Visiting Joseph Stalin Museum and house in Gori. This is dedicated to the Russian leader Joseph Stalin who was born in Georgia.

2:00pm - Lunch at Gogi Dvalishvili Wine Cellar at Khidistavi village, where we had 
grilled beef ribs, grilled trout, salad & the Tavkveri Dry Red from this micro-winery.

More photos of the winery and apiary at Gogi Dvalishvili Wine Cellar.

Local wine labels such as Andre Blanck Riesling Alsace, Erwin Sabathi, and Old Kakheti, etc.
While we were busy tasting the wine indoors, and outside in the apiary, bees were busy making honey.

3:30pm - after the good lunch and pepped up with good wine & honey, we are ready to climb up to the Uplistsikhe Caves.

The Uplistsikhe Caves (literally, "the lord's fortress") is an ancient rock-hewn town in eastern Georgia, some 10 kilometres east of the town of Gori.
"Built on a high rocky left bank of the Mtkvari River, it contains various structures dating from the Early Iron Age to the Late Middle Ages, and is notable for the unique combination of various styles of rock-cut cultures from Anatolia and Iran, as well as the co-existence of pagan and Christian architecture".


At the top viewpoint of the Uplistsikhe Caves.


From here is a nice panoramic view of the Kura River and the valley below.

The Georgians, Armenians and Azerbaijanis are dog-friendly; often one will see stray dogs wandering around the streets. In urban areas in Georgia, several NGO-run campaigns vaccinate and sterilize street dogs; those dogs are easily identifiable by a tag in their ear. 

Sunset in the clouds. Enroute to Kutaisi, along Highway E60 (Tblisi -Senaki-Leselidze Highway), saw this beautiful view of the sun setting among the clouds.

Later on along the same highway, a misty dusk & into the twilight zone.

And then a sunset with the trees.

Western/Georgian Fare at the food court of Smart Supermarket in Argveta.
Chicken wrap, mushroom salad, potato salad, beer, cherry juice.

After dinner, along Highway E60, and near the Qvirila River, a golden sunset relaxed us and helped the food digest.

10:30pm - Checked into our hotel in Kutaisi, the Prestige Guest House.
Alternate hotel for second group was Gala Boutique Hotel.

"ღამე მშვიდობისა!"
(That's "Ghame Mshvidobisa!" - "Good Night!" in Georgian)

(For more photos of Day 9, Click Here)
This is page 9 of a 14-page blog, Click Here To Go To Title Page.
D8: Dariali Monastery            |           Go to Other Days          |          D10: Martvili Canyon >

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