Wednesday, April 27, 2016

Cycling South Thailand 2016: Day 2 - A Super Hot Day In Thailand

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Cycling South Thailand 2016 : Day 2 - A Super Hot Day In Thailand
Tour of South Thailand: Day 2, 12th April 2016
Small Group Cycling Tour - Songkhla>Sathing Phra>Ranot.
Cycling Distance - 90.68 km.     Level: Hard (Partly because of the distance but mainly the heat)
Time : 7:15am to 6:00pm
Time Taken :  10hrs 45mins (inclusive of touring Songkhla, stops for lunch, regroup, rests, re-hydrating and photo opps.).

This is page 2 of a 9-page blog, Click Here To Go To Title Page.
< Go D1 Hat Yai                   |          Go to Other Days          |            Go to D3 Thale Noi >

Route Recommendations :
1. The route is relatively flat. The main roads have wide shoulders suitable to cycle on.
    To avoid having to cycle a long way round Songkhla Lake, we took a ferry over from the Samila Beach over to the port side.
2. March to June is the hot season in Thailand, it does get extremely hot. With the El Nino effect this year's day temperature shot up to almost forty degrees. Most of the main roads are unshaded, so do cover up and rehydrate frequently.
    This stretch was particularly hot with hardly any shade, we literally had to put ourselves under the tap to wet our whole body before continuing cycling. Within half and hour we were totally dry. 
3. The main city roads in Songkhla & Ranot can get quite congested with heavy traffic, try to avoid them. There are some shared cycling lanes in both cities.
4. Places & Scenery
    - Songkhla old city centre has quaint architecture and do visit the Golden Mermaid (GPS: 7.21549, 100.5958) and Great Serpent Nag (GPS: 7.22707, 100.57709) at Samila Beach (GPS: 7.21516, 100.59532).
    - other than the cities, the scenery along the route was quite unchanging with houses on both sides of the road. Spots of padi fields could be seen.
    - Sathing Phra (GPS: 7.46606, 100.417186) has a lovely wide beach facing the blue sea and skies of the Gulf of Thailand.
    - Ranot beach, although not as beautiful, have lovely sunrise and sunset scenes.
5. Food
    - The Hakka ladies noodles at 120 Nang Ngam Road, Songkhla (GPS: 7.196800, 100.59052) is quite good.
    - The Satin Restaurant (GPS: 7.46099, 100.44996) seafood stall run by a few ladies at Sathing Phra beach serves wonderful lunch that goes very well with the great sea and sky scenery.
    - Food at Ranot is easily avialable from many shops along the main roads.
6. Accommodations
    We stayed at a Ban Rim Lea motel at Ranot beach (GPS: 7.78186, 100.36821). Rate is at 400 Bahts per room per night.
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PRELUDE

The previous day we had taken a train from KL Sentral to Hat Yai and started our tour with ride to Songkhla. It was a short 31 km. ride but a good introduction to cycling in Thailand. We had expected it to be hot, but it turned out to be extremely hot with temperatures reaching up to forty degrees and not much shade to hide under. Irrespective of the heat, we did enjoy ourselves and looked forward to another interesting (albeit hot) ride today, it's a day we will be toasted, roasted and grilled!
Let's see how we did.
___________________________________________________________________________________
THE RIDE

 
Ride Route - Songkhla>Sathing Phra>Ranot.
The route takes us on ninety kilometre of relatively flat roads towards Ranot. We were hampered not so much by the distance but by the unforgiving sun shining strongly down on us. Mid-way we stopped at Sathing Phra beach for lunch. It's a beautiful spot with wide sandy beaches overlooking the blue Gulf of Thailand, shimmering below an equally bright blue sky.
(Click Here for Google Cycling Route Map)

We kicked off the day with a ride around Songkhla old town centre, admiring the place and it's archaic architecture. There's a lot of Chinese influence here in terms of the house design and the number of Chinese temples around; there were even red lanterns strung across some of the streets.

Stopped by for a quick visit to a museum, housed in a red rice warehouse ride next to Songkhla Lake. These are statues of coolies of old, carrying sacks of rice; with each sack carried they are given a stick (something like an ice-cream stick) by a foreman. Payment is made by the number of sticks they have.

Breakfast was at tshe traditional Yen Ta Fo, Auntie Paed, operated by two warm, friendly Hakka ladies.
(เย็นตาโฟโบราณ เจ๊แป๊ด สงขลา GPS: 7.196800, 100.59052).

I like the keow teow noodles in Thailand, they are thin, smooth and nicely bitey.
The noodles came with water spinach, meat balls, tau pok, boiled pork skin, cured cuttlefish and even coagulated pig's blood. The soup was thin yet tasty.... YummY!

Heading out of town we rode towards Samila Beach, there were cycling lanes there marked it red and separated from the road by kerbs.

Some of our action at Samila Beach:
With the Golden Mermaid. Many single ladies come here to pray to here, wishing for a good husband - or if not a good husband, at the least to get married.

Saw the Great Serpent Nag, with it's mouth spraying not fire, but water onto the sea. Many come here to pray to it too.... I think not for husbands, but more for good luck in life and business.

My prayers must have been answered by both the mermaid and serpent - I was lucky to meet a married couple and they were kind enough to let me take photos with them.

Some cooling off - coconut cream ice-cream!
I love these, the santan cream any time tastes and smell better than cow's cream. And they do make it better in Thailand - smooth, creamy and sweet. The ones here were served in a young coconut with tender, slurpy flesh. I scooped up some flesh to take with each mouthful of ice-cream.... YummY!

We left Songkhla via a free ferry ride that will take us from the beach side to the port side, saving us a long ride around the lake. It's free for bicycles only.... Yippee!

9:30am - It's only at this other side that the heat hit us; the road stretches on and on.... with hardly any shade.
The sky was blue, the day was bright and there were even bright red bougainvillea at the centre of the road. It's a beautiful day..... if only it was not so hot!

The heat was taking its toll on us, we stopped often to cool off and drank lots of water...

 At one of the stops, Sin and me went under the tap!
We wetted ourselves - cap, shirts, pants, face-masks, arm-sleeves, socks.... everything!
AND within half-an-hour of cycling we were dry!

The saving grace for the day - Sathing Phra beach.
We took a right off the main road and onto a road running parallel to the beach... and I was awe-struck! It's so beautiful here: wide sandy beach, a bright blue sky shimmering under an equally bright blue sky!

Lunch was at the Satin Restaurant on the beach operated by a few young ladies. We had seafood tomyam (very good), Som Tum green papaya salad (very good), omelette (good), fried rice (good), stir-fried spicy minced pork (very good).
(Location of this stall is GPS: 7.460990, 100.44996)

It's so beautiful here, one can dine out in the open and even lounged while looking out at the sea.

Having enough of the sun, we lingered on for a while in their bamboo sheds, slowly sipping cold beer while taking the scenery and ambience in.
(Click here to read more of our Sathing Phra lunch)

It was still very hot as we rode off from this idyllistic place; our physical selves could be hot but at least our minds now had a spot of paradise within.

Hmmm... I hope you don't think this guy is gay, carrying a cutsie doll while motorcycling around. Actually, I don't think he is; these type of dolls are the in thing for youngsters, they "adopt" this dolls as babies of their own, taking them everywhere they go and even sleeping with them.

Our route now took us pass padi fields; surprisingly even in these hot and dry weather they were still looking refreshingly, bright green.

4:00pm - Mr. Sun was still shining very strong, now it's even worse - the accumulated heat from the road wafted up. Even my tough Olympus TG-4 Tough camera was affected, the wavering heat blurring up my photos.

The local children took all these in their stride, starting to celebrate the eve of Songkhran, ganging up to shoot their water guns at the poor fellow on the right.

Our helpful local angel who helped us find the beach motel.
5:15pm - We reach Ranot and were disappointed to find out the the motel we wanted to stay in had only two rooms available... so the hunt was on for alternative motels. I hired a local motor-taxi hoping that the driver would be familiar with other accommodations and he did take me to one further inland situated in a nicely landscaped garden. But when I got back, Keat had managed to get assistance from a local cyclist who.....

..... who took him to the Rim Lea Motel. It had enough rooms to house the five of us individually and the BEST part was...

... it was just right next to the sea. Goofy's here enjoying the cooler evening breeze blowing from the sea.

Goofy wasn't the only one appreciating the cooler evening; these children came out, happily cycling around, just enjoying their simple village life.

After freshening up, we rewarded ourselves to a treat of a 8-course dinner. They serve very good prawn fritters here!
Tomorrow will be a wet and colourful day at Thale Noi!
Good night.

This is page 2 of a 9-page blog, Click Here To Go To Title Page.
Go D1 Hat Yai                   |          Go to Other Days          |            Go to D3 Thale Noi >
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You are at - Jotaro's Blog / AhPek Biker / Cycling Thailand / Cycling South Thailand 2016 / Day 2 - A Super Hot Day In Thailand     |     Go To D1 / D3 / D4 / D5D6 / D7 / D8-10 / D11-12
If you like this, view my other blogs at Jotaro's Blog
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Monday, April 25, 2016

Cycling South Thailand 2016: Day 1 - An Introduction to Thailand

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                                     AhPek Biker - Riding Adventures                                   
Cycling South Thailand 2016 : Day 1 - An Introduction to Thailand
Tour of South Thailand: Day 1, 11th April 2016
Small Group Cycling Tour - Kuala Lumpur(by train)>Hat Yai>Songkhla.
Cycling Distance - 30.47 km.     Level: Medium (Not because of the distance but the heat)
Time : 12:30pm to 5:30pm
Time Taken :  5hrs 0mins (inclusive of stops for lunch, regroup, rests and photo opps).

This is page 1 of a 9-page blog, Click Here To Go To Title Page.
                                                      |         Go to Other Days            |                Go to D2 Ranot >

Route Recommendations :
1. The route is relatively flat. The main roads have wide shoulders suitable to cycle on.
2. March to June is the hot season in Thailand, it does get extremely hot. With the El Nino effect this year's day temperature shot up to almost forty degrees. Most of the main roads are unshaded, so do cover up and rehydrate frequently. 
3. The main city roads in Hat Yai & Songkhla can get quite congested with heavy traffic, try to avoid them. There are some shared cycling lanes in both cities.
4. Places & Scenery
    - we did pass by a couple of nice Thai temples but did not have time to stop and visit, eg. the San Chao Thep Na Ja Temple (ศาลเจ้าเทพนาจา) (GPS: 7.05371, 100.5076)
    - the scenery along the route is cityscape and sub-urban.
    -  JP Bike shop (GPS: 7.033420, 100.502069
    - the Songkhla night market (GPS: 7.186342, 100.593359) is a good place to mingle and observe local life.
5. Food
    - Ah Keat Boat Noodle shop (GPS: 7.00198, 100.47081) serves one awesome Thai noodles.
    - There are many seafood shops in Songkhla, we ate at Restaurant 2528 (GPS: 7.195165, 100.593726).
    - the night markets has a good range of street food including crunchy insect treats.
6. Accommodations
    There are many motels in which to stay in at Songkhla, we stayed at TJ Motel located at Saiburi Soi 29 (GPS: 7.181592, 100.606018) at 450 Bahts per room per night.
___________________________________________________________________________________
PRELUDE

10:00pm of the 10th: The five of us (Andrew, Hui Min, Keat, Sin & me) met at KL Sentral Station a couple of hours before our early morning KTM sleeper train. Our destination -  Hat Yai in Thailand!
At that point of time, most of the shops were already getting ready to close, and there were really not much to eat. We ate some end-of-day stock of KFC just to fill our tummy knowing that food from the train cafeteria was nothing much to shout about.
The train arrived and we boarded searching for our sleeping berths (which we had booked a month earlier as these get sold out fast). We were fortunate that most of our berths were on the lower deck and we could comfortably park our Brompton bicycles just next to our bed (Locked to our beds of course! Don't want our darlings to be stolen while we were asleep, would we?)
As the train headed off, we chatted a bit, went to check out the cafetaria (nothing much there) then came back and retired to our individual berths. I always have difficulties sleeping on trains, but laid there on the bed and with the motion of the train rocking like a cradle, I was soon asleep. Woke up at around 5:00am and noticed that the train had stopped at Chemor; there was some problems with the locomotive and they had to change another one! This caused a delay of a precious two hours. Well, nothing much we can do about it so I just went back to sleep.

11:50am - We are at Padang Besar, the border town between Peninsular Malaysia and Thailand. Here we had to disembark to go through the immigrations checks of both countries. We took our luggage bags (Brompton C and T bags) down with us and were allowed to leave our bicycles on board. The train stops here for almost an hour, an most take the opportunity to stretch their legs...

... and have brunch at the cafeteria located at the first floor of the immigration complex. By coincidence, a mutual friend En. Mohd. Nasser was operating the cafeteria and we popped by to say hello. He can also help arrange for van services to take passengers from Padang Besar to Hat Yai (contact him on his mobiles: +6012-5326522 & +6012-4625787)
We took some nasi lemak and Malay rice which were relatively good and after a while re-boarded the train.

12:30pm (Thai time): The train arrived at Hat Yai station, two hours late. Our landing platform was a few tracks away from the station proper and we had to carry our bikes across several railway tracks. I was carrying mine when passengers on the other platform shouted at me to hurry.... there was a train arriving. Fortunately, it chugged slowly in and I was able to get out of it's way with ample time to spare.... Phew!

First thing first was to get local pre-paid sim cards for our mobile phones. Fortunately at the railway station sales people from the Happy mobile network were promoting theirs and we were able to get all our within an hour. Min & Keat (who will be with us part of the tour only) went for a 7-day package that costed 299 Baht while the rest of us went for a 1-month package that costed 599 Baht. This was suppose to include a 7-day accident insurance, but try as I may I was never able to send a successful sms to register (Pffffft!)

It was very hot when we arrived, and we were lucky - Coca Cola sent some angels to distribute iced cold drinks free to all arriving at the station... I gulped down three. No, it was not because the promoters were pretty... I was really thirsty!
___________________________________________________________________________________
THE RIDE

 
Ride Route - Hat Yai>Songkhla.
The route take us out from Hat Yai onto the relatively flat Highway #407 towards Songkhla. En route we stopped for lunch, another stop for drinks and also popped into a bicycle shop.
(Click Here for Google Cycling Route Map)
 
Yahooooooo! Yipeeeeeee!
We are riding on Hat Yai's roads! You must excuse my exuberance, this is the first time I am cycling in Thailand.... hot as it may, I was filled with excitement.
Yeeeee Yah..... Ariba ariba!

And I took in my initial views as I cycled along, like these pedlar resting in the shade of the railway station...

... a psychedelic view of trucks seen through a mesh window...

... motorcyclists weaving through the traffic carrying huge loads...

... another pedlar happily carrying his wares, smiling widely despite the heat.
Yes, Thailand is indeed the Land of Smiles, it's gentle people always seemingly happy.

As we rode on, we noticed cycling lanes, shared lanes on many of the roads, side-lanes and alleys of Hat Yai. We were to notice similar lanes in many of the towns we visited later, Thailand seems to be more cycling-friendly than Malaysia.

With just a quick stint (about 600m from the station) we were Ah Keat's shop that sells on of the best boat noodles in Hat Yai. Normally, these are sold from boats plying the river and because of that they are sold in small bowls. Ah Keat's however have these small bowls, and also medium and large sized ones too. The noodles typically comes with a small bowl of bean sprouts and "kensom leaves" (Vietnamese mint leaves). Min went for the medium-sized one which is shown above, while us guys went for the large ones (seen below).

Keat's noodles came with keow teow (flat rice noodles) immersed in a slightly sticky, spicy gravy. Ingredients includes slices of pork, pork liver, fish balls. I like their keow teow which was very smooth had a slightly bouncy bite. The gravy was not very spicy (although one can add chilli to suit). Overall it was very good, one of the best that I have tasted and I would recommend not to miss this if in Hat Yai.

And this is Ah Keat the man... does not look like a noodle vendor does he... he looks more like a cool guy ready to rock!
(GPS for Ah Keat's Boat Noodle: 
7.00203, 100.47082)

Due to the delayed train, we were running late and the afternoon was beginning to get hot. So we had to abandon plans to explore Hat Yai and started riding for Songkhla. The roads had wide emergency lanes for us to cycle on but were almost devoid of any shade. Here's Sin putting a long-sleeved thin shirt to cover up from the sun.

We passed several small towns and also this interesting temple with a large statue of a monk sitting legs folded with a large cobra behind him. This is the San Chao Thep Na Ja Temple.
Along the way, we popped into the JP Bike shop just to see whether there was any accessories worthwhile grabbing.

As we approached Songkhla, evening was setting in and the evening markets were already doing brisk business.

We did not go into Songkhla's main town centre but instead rode to one of the suburbs where we will be staying. Eventhough it's the suburbs, traffic was rather heavy here.

But soon, Andrew's GPS unit led us off the main road and onto quieter roads and even onto laterite roads. That's what GPS units will do, it will try to avoid main busy roads as far as possible, and that's a good thing too as we can ride safer then.

Evening was beginning to set in and the roads were filled with local cyclists who rang their bells and waved at us shouting "Khap!" (short for Sawasdee-khap). And we shouted back with our best smiles.

6:00pm - We reached our stay for the night, the TJ Motel. This is my room, these motels in Thailand are relatively cheap with TJ's costing 450 Bahts per night per room. The rooms are fairly large and most are single-storey (we could easily push our bicycles in!) .

After a quick freshening up, we were off again, heading for Ramvithi Road where there are rows and rows of food shops. We had our first proper taste of Thai food at Restaurant 2528, a dinner which included their renown tomyam (very good), Thai omelet (okay), mixed platter of roast chicken and roast pork (below average), etc.
(GPS for Restaurant 2528: 7.195165, 100.593726)

But we were not done for the day yet, and cycled over to a nearby market to walk-off our meal. These night markets are a good place to observe local life with stalls selling all sorts of stuff including this deep-fried silkworm, to the Thais a crunchy treats but to the uninitiated (like yours truly)..... Ughs....

Cheers!
And Good Night.... we have another exciting day tomorrow as we head for Ranot!

[Click here for a FB video of Day One's ride (only available to members of Happy Cycling)]

This is page 1 of a 9-page blog, Click Here To Go To Title Page.
                                                      |         Go to Other Days            |                Go to D2 Ranot >
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You are at - Jotaro's Blog / AhPek Biker / Cycling Thailand / Cycling South Thailand 2016 / Day 1 - An Introduction to Thailand     |     Go To D2 / D3 / D4 / D5D6 / D7 / D8-10 / D11-12
If you like this, view my other blogs at Jotaro's Blog
(comments most welcomed below. if you like this pls share via facebook or twitter)